The Coffeehouse Read online

  The Coffeehouse

  This e-book published in 2013 by

  The American University in Cairo Press

  113 Sharia Kasr el Aini, Cairo, Egypt

  420 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10018

  www.aucpress.com

  English translation copyright © 2010 by Raymond Stock

  Copyright © 1988 by Naguib Mahfouz

  First published in Arabic in 1988 as Qushtumur

  Protected under the Berne Convention

  All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

  ISBN 9781617973154

  Cover photograph by Amr Khadr

  Cover design by Andrea El-Akshar

  Naguib Mahfouz

  The Coffeehouse

  Translated by Raymond Stock

  The American University in Cairo Press

  Cairo New York

  Abbasiya in its lost youth. An oasis in the heart of a vast desert. In its east loomed mansions like little fortresses, and in its west were small, clustered houses, vain of their hidden gardens and of their newness. On more than one side it was enfolded by green fields, and by forests of date palms, henna plants, and prickly pear trees. Its calm and quiet would have been complete but for the humming of the white tram, shuttling on its well-worn tracks between suburban Heliopolis and Ataba Square. The dry desert wind that beat down, drawing the deepest perfume from the fields, stirred secret love in the breasts of men. And just at sunset, the begging rabab player, wrapped in his long gallabiya, meandered through the streets, barefooted and goggle-eyed, chanting in a rasping voice, but not without a piercing air:

  I put my trust in you, O Time,

  But you returned to betray me. …

  Their acquaintance began in 1915 on the playground of the al-Bara-muni Primary School. They enrolled at age five and finished at age nine. They were all born in different months in 1910. To this day, they have not moved away from their native district—and will all be buried in the Bab al-Nasr Cemetery. Their group of friends grew to more than twenty as their neighbors joined them. Yet, after some moved to live elsewhere, and others passed away, only five of them have never left each other, the bonds of friendship never slackening—these four, and the narrator. Their closeness in spirit has remained unchanged through the flow of time and all its misfortunes—not even class differences could affect it. This is friendship in all its perfection and all its eternity—the five are one, and the one is five.

  Two of them were from east Abbasiya, and two from west Abbasiya. The narrator too is from west Abbasiya, but that hardly matters here. Our luck and our destinies have changed over time, but Abbasiya is still our home and Qushtumur still our coffeehouse. Its corners have echoed with our chatter, our laughter, and our tears—and the sound of our heartbeats that have pulsed without end in the beating breast of Cairo.

  Before we discovered Qushtumur, we used to gather in Hospital Square, by the slender, elegant date palm that stood in the field belonging to Uncle Ibrahim, with Mukhtar Pasha Street on one side, and Between the Gardens Street on the other. Overlooking it were the back lots of many homes in west Abbasiya that filled our need for greenery. The field’s south faced a wilderness of thorny fig trees, and to its north, overlooking the district of al-Wayli, a waterwheel turned amid thickets of henna that wafted a sweet fragrance through the air. On our days off school we would sit under the palm towering at its heart, our mouths overflowing with facts and fables. Each pointed out his own house by way of introduction. And so we beheld the home of Sadiq Safwan on Between the Gardens Street, that of Ismail Qadri Suleiman on Hassan Eid Street, and the palace of Hamada Yusri al-Halawani on Hospital Square, along with the villa of Tahir Ubayd al-Armalawi on Among the Mansions Street.

  Sadiq and Ismail were amazed by the mansions with their gardens. They were intoxicated with pride to proclaim their friendship with the sons of such distinguished families.

  In the evenings their talk was full of information on this world and the next.

  “My father’s an official in the Ministry of Religious Endowments,” boasted Sadiq Safwan al-Nadi—“and my mother is clever in everything!”

  With our first sight of Safwan al-Nadi Effendi, he immediately gripped our attention. Short and thin, sporting a long, luxuriant mustache of a kind we’d never seen before, as time passed Safwan Effendi’s facial hair became the tempting target of witty remarks, wisecracks, and jokes. Sadiq joined our laughter without reserve, regardless of the love and respect he harbored for his father. As for his mother, Zahrana Karim—whom we called “auntie”—we ran into her sometimes on the street, wrapped in her black shawl. From behind a diaphanous veil she would warn us about the tram as we crossed the road, invoking God for our safety. Sadiq was polite and pious as well: he prayed regularly, and would begin fasting when he reached the age of seven. But he had no brothers or sisters because of an illness that struck his mother during his birth. He was the family’s only child, and its enduring hope. We were sure he got lots of care and attention, even though his strict father used to shout at him.

  “Sadiq, work hard!” he would bellow. “Your father has nothing to leave you, so make your degree your ticket to getting a job!”

  A profound change crept over Sadiq’s spirit when he spoke of the world of one of his relations, named Raafat Pasha al-Zayn. He accompanied his father to visit the pasha on Among the Mansions Street, not far from the villa of his friend, Tahir Ubayd al-Armalawi.

  “The palace of my cousin, the pasha,” he said breathlessly, “is like your family’s palace, Hamada. Its garden is nearly as big as Uncle Ibrahim’s field—it blooms with all the flowers of this world and the next. And the greeting rooms—the Blue Hall, the Yellow Hall—are huge. The pasha is an awesome man. His wife Zubayda Hanem’s beauty has no equal, and she’s extremely good-hearted. They love my father and mother as though we are rich like them. Their son Mahmud is older than me by two years, while their daughter Amira is even more beautiful than Zubayda Hanem. Everything there drives you mad!”

  Raafat had started out among the minor wealthy, but thanks to Zubayda Hanem’s capital, he established the biggest brass factory in the area. God shed his bounty on him in a great many ways. Meanwhile, he set out his traps among the big shots, the elite, and the English—until he procured the rank of pasha.

  “Being loaded is the most important thing in the world,” declared Sadiq.

  The love of lucre took root in Sadiq’s heart in the palace of his cousin. This was reflected more in his dreams than in his middling efforts as a student, like most of our group. He was enchanted by Raafat Pasha, Zubayda Hanem, and Amira, who was older than him by seven years: they were the symbols of heaven and its happiness, while he remained an example of the well-behaved believer. If a girl was mentioned, he would fall silent, or else remind us of the torture of the grave and the final judgment.

  When his grandfather passed away, Sadiq told us, “Mother said that we are all going to die.”

  He did not imagine that his mother or father would ever die. There seemed nothing new in what he said, yet we felt secure because death was an eventuality put off until a time unknown. All of us surrender to death with our tongues but in our hearts we toss it aside indefinitely. From time to time it passed near us in funeral processions on their way to the cemetery while we gazed upon them without concern as if these events didn’t affect us. We would sit beneath the date palm and play tug-of-war, or feast on the dishes of ice cream studded with biscuits, or mimic the peculiar mannerisms of our teachers.

  Nor were we always alone, for dozens of students
from the second level would sometimes join us. Some of them were known for their big mouths, coarse language, and love of violent, insolent behavior. Yet our friendship endured as a solid core that would not permit any stranger to enter. Sadiq would invite us to a banquet of a lunch, where he would serve us scrumptious ta‘miyya, massive meatballs, and several different kinds of salad, with a platter of oranges and tangerines. On cold, rainy days we would linger until mid-afternoon in his little house on Between the Gardens Street.

  Hamada Yusri al-Halawani returned the favor by inviting us to lunch in his palace on Hospital Square. There the beautiful garden welcomed us with its wonderful scents and its gleaming, well-washed greenery. Accompanied by a servant, we made our way to a little, two-roomed house with a balcony that stood alone amid the garden. Through a window that opened upon the garden, the branches danced with a fan-like sway. Spread in every corner of the house were broad leaves glued to sticks that were used to swat flies. For lunch, we had grilled meat, eggplant stuffed with meat and rice, salads, then blancmange for dessert. Before we ate we played tug-of-war without a worry in our heads, and took exercise afterward in the garden’s pathways. We watched Tawfiq, Hamada’s brother, who was older than him by some years, racing around on a green bicycle. And we glanced furtively at Afkar, his sister of twenty, through one of the palace windows.

  Our visit was a happy one, marred only by a single embarrassment. When the silverware was laid out neatly for our meal—knives, forks, and spoons—Ismail Qadri Suleiman made us all squirm when he burst out, “We use just one hand and a spoon!”

  Part of Sadiq’s praise for the pasha came from the fact that both he and Zubayda Hanem ate as his own family did. Only Mahmud and Amira used their silver.

  “Such good people,” Sadiq told us. “It’s as though they’re from us and we’re from them. Zubayda Hanem loves salted fish, and my father asked for some as a present. When my mother told her that he’s not satisfied until he’s eaten onions, Zubayda Hanem served them with the fish.”

  Sadiq recited this story as though it were a miraculous milestone in the history of human relations. On top of that, he was the handsomest boy among us. Of medium height with light-colored skin, he had a well-chiseled face, deep, dark eyes, and sleek black hair.

  We learned a great deal about Hamada Yusri al-Halawani and his family. A royal upbringing in their palace. The pasha owning the biggest tahiniya factory in the country: sweets finer than air and stuffed with pistachio. The palace had a magnificent library, but the pasha had no time to use it. A man of money and business. We saw him a lot going about in his Ford. Of middle height and considerable heft, with a twining mustache and golden-brown skin, he radiated grandeur, as did his wife, Afifa Hanem Badr al-Din. She was not bad looking, but her stateliness overwhelmed her beauty.

  “Papa is always busy,” said Hamada, “and Mama is strict—she likes you to obey. My sister is studying at Mère de Dieu, and my mother has picked out a rich fiancé for her. My brother Tawfiq pleases Mama with his hard work. But she never stops scolding me, and keeps telling me that money has no worth without learning and a home.”

  “And why don’t you apply yourself?” asked Ismail Qadri.

  “I like to leaf through the pages of the books in Papa’s library and look at the pictures.”

  “Don’t you want to be like your father?” Ismail continued.

  “No,” said Hamada. “He takes us, my brother and me, to the factory. My brother finds it all fascinating—but I just yawn.”

  “What you want to be?” Sadiq Safwan asked him.

  “I don’t know.”

  His relationship with his family was tense, with the exception of his sister, Afkar. He loved her and said dejectedly, “She’s getting ready to leave us.”

  His father asked him to take heed of his future in the factory, his mother wouldn’t cease upbraiding him, and his brother made fun of his laziness. He prayed regularly for a while and then gave it up.

  “Only Papa prays all the time,” said Hamada.

  “And Mama?” Sadiq wondered.

  “She doesn’t pray. And she doesn’t fast. What about Raafat Pasha’s wife?”

  Sadiq smiled. “She’s like your mother, despite her severe nature.”

  We lost him for a month each year in the summer when his family traveled to Ras al-Barr near Damietta. They were originally from Damietta, and summering in Ras al-Barr was an old local tradition. He told us about their palm-frond hut—and the waves of the sea.

  “Are the waves really as high as mountains?” Ismail Qadri wondered.

  “Higher!” said Hamada. “And better than that, you can see where the Nile meets the sea!”

  This was a bewitching fantasy for those who didn’t leave Cairo the whole year round. Even the Armalawis took a short holiday in the country. Hamada was dark-skinned, and his tallness heralded his future growth. His head was large, tinged with nobility and respect. His face was average, but his eyes had a piercing look.

  Then, at the end of our days in primary school, approaching age nine, typhoid struck him. He was isolated in a special room; we went to the palace, but were barred from seeing him. He was gone from us for a month, then returned like an apparition. He talked a lot to us about his illness, how he was denied food without even wanting it anyway, then how hunger gnawed at him during his recovery, finally going back and forth between a feeling of starvation and satiety until he nearly fainted. And so he learned through his sickness that everyone truly loved him.

  “The whole calamity began with a fly!” he mused.

  Even at this early age, we could all see our goals in the distant future. All except Hamada, that is, whose goal seemed obscure.

  Tahir Ubayd al-Armalawi, with his simplicity, his lightness of spirit, and his tendency to put on weight, was one of the dearest to our hearts. He was brown-skinned with a common sort of face, but there was no resisting him.

  “I’m worn out being an only child,” he told us.

  “But you have two sisters?”

  “I’m the only son. Papa is determined to make me into Egypt’s number one medical doctor.”

  Though less than a mighty mansion, Dr. Ubayd al-Armalawi’s villa was nonetheless extremely elegant. The pasha–physician directed the laboratories of the Ministry of Health. He was a man serene in his official grandeur, refinement, and European manner, with a doctorate from Austria. A factotum opened his car door for him. He always appeared to be at the pinnacle, though he was much less wealthy than al-Halawani or al-Zayn. There was a distance about him that set him apart from us. Nor did he welcome his son’s mixing with the boys from west Abbasiya, but Tahir avowed to him that he could not cut his relations with his close companions. Our friend’s mother, Insaf Hanem al-Qulali, was not only a graduate of Mère de Dieu, like Hamada’s mother, but was very cultured and well-read, as well. Thanks to her, the pasha’s scientific library was stocked with the fruits of philosophy and the humanities. Both she and the pasha agreed they must make Tahir into a person of the highest stature.

  “What are the most treasured study resources you have?” she once asked her son.

  “The lines of verse I’ve memorized,” he replied. “For example: O omen, welcome / To your face I beckon.”

  Even so young he showed a great love of poetry and memorized it as well. Perhaps he found the verse in magazines kept at the villa: he would ask his mother to explain it, then he would instantly memorize it.

  All this pleased the pasha.

  “The boy is smart—he’s going to be an amazing doctor,” he told his wife.

  Tahir learned about his faith for the first time in the al-Baramuni School. No one mentioned religion, either positively or negatively, at the Villa al-Armalawi. Nor did they practice it in any way: Ramadan and the feasts were religious events only among the servants. In contrast to Sadiq Safwan’s great share of belief and religious practice, one could say that Tahir’s upbringing was a pagan one, or even without any sort of religion at all. His sister
s Tahiya and Hiyam were the same in this respect.

  “They both have gorgeous friends who visit them—they sit together in the garden—shining like moons!” marveled Tahir.

  He stole away from their meeting, impassioned with an obscure desire. He had received their flirtations like roses. Deep inside him, an innocent, clear, and impulsive delight exploded within him in his first interaction with the opposite sex. One year his family was invited to spend two weeks in Alexandria with his maternal aunt, and we heard about this city the way we had heard about Ras al-Barr. He bathed in the private pool used by the ladies in San Stefano with his mother and his two sisters, and was taken aback by the sight of the hanems in their swimming costumes that looked like nightgowns.

  “They were like cows, or even fatter!”

  His mother, Insaf Hanem al-Qulali, was of medium build, unlike the style of the time, when obesity was the epitome of beauty, for both women and men. Yet to us it seemed that his first passionate infatuation was with the memorized verses of poetry he recited to us under the palm in Uncle Ibrahim’s field. He was enchanted also by cinema: one night we went there for the first time during one of the feasts, at the Bellevue Cinema in Dahir. In truth, it enchanted us all, but he was simply mad for it. That we were only allowed to leave the limits of Abbasiya on holidays only redoubled his passion. Meanwhile cinema occupied an important place in our conversations, and activated our imaginations to such an extent that a cattle ranch turned into our second homeland. The sight of it made our hearts beat faster and filled them with longing.

  Ismail Qadri Suleiman too had his say under the date palm. Tawny, strongly built, with honey-colored eyes, a large nose, and an intelligent expression, his small house had a back garden on Hassan Eid Street, and resembled Sadiq Safwan’s home on Between the Gardens Street. His father, Qadri Effendi Suleiman, was an official in the railways. Ismail looked like him, except for his bulk.